Our exploration of the Yucatan Peninsula took us deep into its rich history and culture, beginning with a visit to the awe-inspiring Chichen Itza. Believed to be around 1500 years old, this ancient Mayan city is located approximately 200 km west of Cancun. While it involved quite a long ride from Playa (del Carmen), the journey was highly recommended and absolutely worth it for the experience that awaited us.
As the most famous of the Mayan pyramids on the Yucatan peninsula, Chichen Itza has been the subject of extensive study and is undoubtedly the most popular Mayan ruin in Mexico, drawing visitors from around the globe. Its significance is recognized internationally; it was chosen as one of the "Seven New Wonders of the World" and was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1988.
The most iconic structure at the site is El Castillo, the main pyramid, also known as the Temple of Kukulkan. This step pyramid is incredibly precise in its design, aligning with astronomical events, most notably during the spring and autumn equinoxes when the shadow of a feathered serpent, representing the deity Kukulkan, is seen "descending" the pyramid's staircase. The site itself is vast and is generally divided into three sections, reflecting different periods of construction and influence: the North grouping of structures is distinctly Toltec in style, showing influence from Central Mexico; the central group appears to be from the earlier period of Mayan occupation; and the southern group is known as "The Old Chichen," containing some of the oldest buildings on the site.
Chichen Itza was a major center, and evidence of its importance includes the fact that there were seven courts for playing the Mesoamerican ballgame here. Among these, the Great Ball Court is particularly impressive, standing as the largest ball court in ancient Mesoamerica, measuring a vast 166 by 68 meters. Standing within its massive walls, you can almost hear the echoes of the ancient game played centuries ago.
The spiritual heart of Chichen Itza was undoubtedly the Sacred Cenote. Located approximately 300 meters north of the Chichen Itza compound, this large natural sinkhole was dedicated to the Chac God, the Maya God of rain and lightening, essential deities for an agricultural society. The cenote is a natural formation, a karst cave tunneled into the limestone bedrock by moving groundwater, which eventually led to the collapse of the ceiling, creating the large opening at the surface. The opening of the Sacred Cenote is substantial, about 65 meters in diameter (covering about an acre in area), with dramatic steep vertical sides some 60 feet above the water level. The water continues for another 40 feet in depth, with about 10 feet of mud at the bottom. This sacred site held a dark and significant role in Mayan rituals, used as a sacrificial pit for offerings, including valuable items and, tragically, human sacrifices – believed to have included virgins, warriors, and even infants – to appease the gods and ensure rain and prosperity. A small steam bath is located at the edge of the cenote, likely used for purification rituals.
From the ancient wonders of Chichen Itza, we traveled approximately 40 km east to the charming colonial city of Valladolid, known as Saki' in Maya. Located about 160 km east of Mérida, the capital of Yucatan, Valladolid offers a different perspective on the peninsula's rich heritage. It's a great city to spend the day exploring, providing a less-trodden path that reveals more of the local history and culture of the Yucatan.
Valladolid is laid out with a classic chessboard-like street grid, making it relatively easy to navigate. At the city center, the heart of the town is the main plaza, featuring a peaceful park square in the middle, surrounded by stores and buildings. This central area is a pleasant place to enjoy a walk, soak in the local atmosphere, and find souvenirs, food, or refreshments.
A prominent landmark in downtown Valladolid is the Cathedral of San Servacio, located on the south side of the main square. The history of this church is quite interesting; the current building substitutes an earlier one erected on March 24, 1545. The original cathedral, like most colonial-era temples in Yucatan, had its main facade looking towards the West. However, in 1705, the original church was partially demolished by order of Bishop Don Pedro de los Reyes Rios due to its profanation during a historical event known as the "Crime of the Mayors." The construction of the church we see today began the following year, in 1706. Notably, it was given a new orientation to look directly towards the main square, which is why the facade of this church uniquely looks towards the north, instead of the typical west-facing orientation of other churches in the region. This architectural detail is a tangible result of its turbulent history.
Visiting both the ancient Mayan site of Chichen Itza and the charming colonial city of Valladolid provided a comprehensive look at the Yucatan's layered past, from the sophisticated civilization of the Maya to the impact of Spanish colonization and the rich cultural heritage that continues today. It was a rewarding journey filled with historical marvels, cultural insights, and beautiful landscapes.
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