Ho Chi Minh City, still affectionately called Saigon by many, is a truly dynamic and fast-paced city that captivates visitors with its unique blend of influences. Its character is a fascinating mix of elegant French colonial architecture, vibrant Chinese influences evident in its temples and districts, and numerous traditional temples scattered throughout the urban landscape, reflecting layers of history and culture.
Upon arrival, we wasted no time diving into the heart of the city. We visited iconic landmarks like the grand Notre Dame Cathedral, built in 1877, and the historic Central Post Office, an impressive colonial-era building reportedly designed by Gustave Eiffel. These structures stand as beautiful reminders of the French colonial period, their elegant facades and spacious interiors offering a glimpse into a different era amidst the city's modern energy. We finished our first day with a trip to Ben Thanh Market, a bustling central market that is a hub of activity. Here, we enjoyed the lively atmosphere, engaging in some bargain shopping for souvenirs and local goods, and perhaps most importantly, trying some delicious local food from the numerous hawker stalls – the vibrant sights, sounds of cooking, and tempting aromas creating a wonderful sensory experience.
Our stay in the city was made comfortable at the Duxton Hotel, located near Dong Khoi road. This street is often compared to Orchard Road in Singapore, known for its upscale feel and array of shops and eateries. Dong Khoi is indeed pretty with its wide sidewalks, green trees lining the road, and a concentration of small boutique shops, restaurants, and hotels, leading all the way down to the Saigon River. It's a great street for a leisurely stroll, offering a blend of modern commerce and historical architecture, as it also houses some of the oldest colonial style buildings in Saigon. A walk up and down this street is a must to soak in the atmosphere and, as we did, it provided a convenient place for comparison shopping for local tours for the next day, where we successfully found some real good ones.
The next day, we joined a local tour for a day trip to the Mekong Delta, starting with My Tho, known as the closest Mekong Delta city to Saigon. The journey into the delta began with a cruise along the expansive Mekong River by motorized boat. My Tho itself has an interesting history, founded by Chinese immigrants in the 17th century and historically prospering on the back of its fertile orchards and rice crops. It was also an important commercial and strategic center during both French colonial times and the Vietnam War, even having a connection to figures like John Paul Vann, the subject of Neil Sheehan's monumental book. A highlight of the delta experience was transferring to a traditional row boat for a ride along the smaller, winding creeks. This offered a more intimate perspective, navigating narrow waterways often shaded by lush greenery, passing by quiet villages of Ben Tre Province and cruising along the edge of Phoenix island. Along the way, we stopped to see local industries, such as handicrafts made from coconut trees (perhaps seeing items being woven or carved) and visited a honey bee keeping farm where we got to see the bees at work and, most deliciously, tried the fresh honey. We also explored tropical orchards, seeing a variety of fruits growing before getting to try the tropical fruit itself – a burst of fresh flavors. For lunch, we enjoyed a meal at a local restaurant, featuring the popularly known Elephant Ear fish, a uniquely presented fish, along with other delicious Vietnamese dishes, providing an authentic taste of delta cuisine.
On our third day, we hired a car for a longer trip to explore sites outside the immediate city. Our first stop was Tay Ninh to see the incredibly unique and ornate temple of Cao Dai. This temple is a striking architectural representation of the Cao Dai religion, which fascinatingly combines elements from Buddhism, Christianity, Taoism, and Confucianism. The temple's design is vibrant and eclectic, reflecting this synthesis of faiths. Later in the day, we made a significant stop for a visit to the Cu Chi Tunnels, located about 70 kilometers North West of downtown HCMC. Built starting in 1948, this intricate network of underground passages evolved into an extensive underground city, featuring living areas, kitchens with hidden chimneys, storage rooms, weapons factories, field hospitals, and command centers. It is astonishing to learn that in places, this complex housed up to 10,000 people who virtually lived underground for years during periods of conflict. The tunnel system served as a crucial army base during the Vietnamese-American War, playing a vital strategic role. Visiting the tunnels today offers a powerful, albeit sobering, experience – seeing the incredibly narrow entrances (some disguised by traps), crawling through sections of the cramped tunnels (for those who choose to), and learning about the incredible ingenuity and hardship faced by the people who lived and fought there. It's a compelling reminder of the region's challenging history.
Our time in Southern Vietnam provided a rich and varied travel experience, from the dynamic energy and colonial history of Ho Chi Minh City to the peaceful waterways and local life of the Mekong Delta, the spiritual uniqueness of the Cao Dai temple, and the profound historical lessons learned at the Cu Chi Tunnels. It offered a deep dive into the country's culture, history, and landscape.
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