Sandy Shores and Historic Heights at Haeundae Beach in Busan Korea May 2017


When thinking of Busan, one image immediately comes to mind for many: the iconic Haeundae Beach (해운대해수욕장). This isn't just a beach; it's the beach, the most famous, bustling, and vibrant stretch of coastline in the city, and a central hub of activity and culture. Haeundae boasts a beautiful, long expanse of soft, white sand, roughly 1.5 kilometers in length and a generous 30 to 50 meters wide, creating a sweeping, inviting coastline that curves into a shallow, protected bay. This natural shape makes Haeundae Beach absolutely perfect for swimming, with gentle waves ideal for families and casual dips, and allows visitors to wade out quite far before the water deepens significantly.



While it's true that during the scorching hot summer months (particularly late July to early August, which coincides with peak Korean summer vacation), Haeundae transforms into a mind-boggling spectacle – a virtual human wall with thousands upon thousands of colorful parasols packed tightly across the mile-long stretch of sand – outside of this intense peak, the beach offers a different kind of spacious beauty and atmosphere. Visitors flock here from all over South Korea, eager to experience its lively energy, and it's also home to a significant portion of Busan's expatriate population, giving the area around the beach a wonderfully international flavor with diverse restaurants, cafes, and shops lining the streets just steps from the sand.




Beyond sunbathing and swimming, Haeundae is deeply woven into the city's cultural fabric, hosting various beach-related events throughout the year. It's one of the most popular spots in Busan, alongside Geumjeongsan Mountain and Dalmaji (Greeting of the Moon) Gogae, to witness the first sunrise of the New Year, drawing crowds of around a thousand hopeful people gathering on the cold sand before dawn. And for the truly brave (or perhaps slightly crazy!), there's the exhilarating annual "Polar Bear Club" event in the first week of January, where hardy participants brave the near-freezing water (temperatures hover around 0°C!) for a bracing dip – a chilly, invigorating tradition held annually at the Choseon Beach Hotel since 1988.




An Elevated Escape: History and Views at Yongdusan Park

While the coast is undoubtedly a major draw and a source of immense energy, Busan also offers elevated escapes with stunning city views and a quieter, historical atmosphere. During our holiday, we also made our way inland slightly, heading to Yongdusan Park (용두산 공원), located right in the downtown area (Jung-gu). Yongdusan Mountain, though only 49 meters high compared to other peaks, is considered one of Busan's three famous mountains and holds a special, symbolic place in the city's history and heart.




Walking through the park today, it's incredible to think about its long and sometimes tumultuous past. Originally called Songhyunsan Mountain, its name beautifully meant "a mountain with a view of the sea through the dense pine tree forest" – a lovely hint at the natural beauty that existed here even then. Later, the name was changed to Yongdusan, or "Dragon's Head Mountain," inspired by the mountain peak's shape, which was believed to protect the area from foreign invaders coming from the sea – a fitting name for a city with such a strong maritime identity. Prior to national liberation, the mountain even held shrines built by the Japanese. Tragically, during the Korean War, displaced people built temporary houses all the way up the sides of the mountain to its summit. These communities were devastatingly burned down not once, but twice, wiping out both the homes and most of the existing trees. The beautiful, green park we see now, filled with various tree species, is a testament to fierce, dedicated replanting efforts that followed – a story of resilience reflected in the city itself. The park's name even changed from "Unam park" during a specific political period to "Yongdusan park" after the 4.19 Revolution in 1960, further marking its place in history.




Today, Yongdusan Park is a peaceful green oasis offering a calm respite from the busy downtown below. It's a place for locals and tourists alike to stroll along shaded pathways, sit on benches, and enjoy the elevated position. Scattered throughout the park are various monuments commemorating key moments and figures in Korean history and culture, including the Cheokhwabi Monument, Chunghontap Pagoda, and the 4.19 Revolution Monument, each adding layers to the park's historical narrative. One of the most prominent is the commanding statue of the revered Admiral Yi Sun-shin, standing tall as a powerful symbol of naval defense and Korean pride.



And, of course, the park is dominated by the iconic Busan Tower. Even from various points within the park grounds, you get beautiful views of Busan Port and the sprawling surrounding city scenery – a captivating urban landscape meeting the sea, with ships, cranes, and activity filling the harbor. The centerpiece for truly panoramic views, however, is usually the Busan Tower itself. It's widely mentioned in tourist guides as the best place to get a magnificent, sweeping perspective, particularly the glittering night landscape of the city and its extensive port. Unfortunately, it was closed for renovation during our visit, meaning we missed out on that specific elevated perspective from the top. While disappointing not to go up, seeing the tower itself and knowing the commanding views it offers from its strategic position added to our appreciation of the park's significance.



Experiencing both the vibrant, expansive Haeundae Beach and the historical, peaceful Yongdusan Park offered a wonderfully balanced glimpse into what makes Busan such a dynamic and fascinating city. From the lively coast that draws crowds, hosts unique events, and offers refreshing dips in the sea, to a quiet downtown mountain park steeped in history, adorned with monuments, and offering valuable city views (even if the main viewpoint was taking a break!), these two distinct spots showcase the diverse character of Busan. Whether you're seeking sun and sand, history and culture, or moments of peaceful reflection with a view, Busan genuinely has something to offer.

Recent Posts