Our Chinese New Year holiday in South Korea was a journey of diverse experiences, blending moments of poignant reflection with underwater exploration and the exhilaration of a winter wonderland.
Our first stop took us to a place of deep historical significance: Imjingak (임진각), a key location along the route to the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ). Imjingak itself serves as a powerful memorial to the Korean War and stands as a symbol of the enduring hope for reunification of the Korean peninsula. The park is home to several poignant landmarks, including the Bridge of Freedom, famously used by over 12,000 South Korean prisoners of war returning home in 1953. An old railway engine, a silent witness caught in the DMZ during the war, is now displayed here as a memorial, its rusted frame a stark reminder of the conflict. Scattered throughout the park are various monuments and sculptures, each conveying messages of peace and the longing for a unified Korea. One particularly moving spot is the fence adorned with countless colorful ribbons, photos, and heartfelt messages left by South Koreans hoping to connect with family members still living in the North. Beyond the memorials, Imjingak provides visitor amenities including a DMZ Video room offering historical context, symbolic sculptures, souvenir shops, and Korean restaurants and stands where you can grab a bite or a memento.
Our journey into the DMZ area included several key sites that offered a deeper understanding of the division. At the Dora-san Observatory, we had a rare opportunity to gaze across the heavily fortified border into North Korea. On a clear day, it's possible to see glimpses of the North Korean landscape, a propaganda village, and even a bronze statue of Kim Il Sung through powerful telescopes, a truly surreal experience that underscores the reality of the divided peninsula. We also ventured into the 3rd Tunnel, one of several clandestine tunnels dug by North Korea under the DMZ as a potential invasion route.
Discovered in 1978, this tunnel is a remarkable feat of engineering, spanning over 1,635 meters in length, with a width and height of 2 meters, and located just 52 kilometers from Seoul. Walking down the sloping tunnel (helmets are provided and recommended!), you get a tangible sense of the scale of this ambitious project, estimated to be capable of moving a staggering 30,000 soldiers per hour. Concrete barricades installed by the South now block passage at the Military Demarcation Line. Visiting the tunnel is a powerful and slightly eerie experience, offering a direct look at the lingering tensions. While tours to the Joint Security Area (JSA) at Panmunjom, where North and South Korean forces stand face-to-face, offer the most direct confrontation, they come with strict regulations and require visitors to carry their passports.
From the historical weight of the DMZ, we transitioned to the vibrant underwater world of the COEX Aquarium in Seoul, located within the bustling Starfield COEX Mall. Opened in 2000, this impressive aquarium is the largest marine theme park in Korea, housing a remarkable collection of 40,000 marine creatures from 650 different species across 14 themed discovery zones. These zones take you on a journey through diverse ecosystems, from the simulated heights of the Andean mountains down to the mysterious depths of the Amazonian rainforest and the deep sea.
Our kids were absolutely captivated by the Wonderland zone, a truly eccentric collection of creatively designed fish tanks that spark imagination. We saw a yellow-bearded dragon fish residing in a shower cubicle tank and a seahorse making its home within a computer monitor – just a couple of examples of the quirky and unexpected aquatic displays here. The Undersea Tunnel was another major highlight. A moving walkway transports you through the heart of an enormous tank containing 2,000 tonnes of water, providing a sense of total immersion in the deep sea as sharks and massive rays glide gracefully around and above you. It's a breathtaking experience that makes you feel like you're walking on the ocean floor. The Deep Blue Sea zone revealed the strange and often beautiful creatures inhabiting the ocean's depths, including fascinating giant crabs and elegant jellyfish drifting through the water. For a more interactive experience, the Touch Pool allowed the kids to gently feel the textures of sea stars and various shellfish, connecting with the marine life in a hands-on way. We even found a tank with doctor fish from Turkey's river basins where you could put your hand in and feel their unique tickling sensation.
Our journey concluded with some snowy fun at Alpensia Ski Resort, a fantastic winter destination that offered a perfect introduction to snow for our kids, who were experiencing snowfall for the first time. The resort boasts six slopes catering to various skill levels, with runs extending up to 1.4 kilometers, providing a dynamic experience for both beginners and more experienced skiers and snowboarders. There's even a dedicated area for advanced snowboarders to hone their skills.
Before hitting the slopes for lessons, the kids were absolutely thrilled just playing in the ski area, molding snowballs and, with a bit of help, creating a giant snowman – pure joy in their first encounter with real snow. The resort is well-equipped with ski shops offering everything you need, from ski equipment rentals to essential gear like gloves and goggles available for purchase. We had initially hoped for an English-speaking instructor for the kids' ski lessons and while we found it a bit challenging initially, the resort does offer lessons with certified English-speaking instructors, catering to both beginner and advanced levels. Lessons typically cover everything from basic stance and stopping to turning and safely using the lifts, with durations usually available in 2 or 4-hour blocks. Despite the initial language hurdle, the kids absolutely loved their time on the slopes and are already eager to return for more snowy adventures! Alpensia offers a range of facilities beyond skiing, including hotels, restaurants, and leisure options like the Ocean700 water park, an Alpine Coaster, and a Sportspark, making it a comprehensive resort for a winter getaway.
Our South Korean adventure was a rich tapestry of experiences, from the solemn reflections at the DMZ and the captivating underwater world of the COEX Aquarium to the pure joy of playing in the snow and learning to ski at Alpensia. It was a trip filled with lasting memories and a desire to explore even more of what this fascinating country has to offer.
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